Page 57 - Bulletin 13 2009

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continues for about two miles, to the pass of Musenberg; and, notwithstanding its being
so full of ascents and descents, and in different places rugged and rocky, it is much
preferable to the deep and fatiguing sand which the traveller encounters on his first
setting out from Simon’s Town. The eye now meets with a different prospect, and full
scope is afforded to the botanist for gratifying his favourite propensities. ……..

Beyond those hills is the strong and important pass of Musenberg, reckoned to be about
twelve miles from Simon’s Town, and the same distance from the Cape. …… The
Musenberg mountain may be said to cut off the extremity of the southern peninsula
from the Cape, as the range of mountains extends from the shore on this side, quite
across to the sea on the other side of the Isthmus near Hoets Bay; all this extreme point
of Africa is admirably defended by nature, but the pass here at Musenberg may well be
compared to the ancient Thermopylae of Greece; an enemy marching from Simon’s
Town to the Cape would here find an almost insurmountable obstacle to his progress.
From the foot of the very high and steep hill to the sea is not more than fifty yards, and
so no boat can land within some distance at either side on account of the rocky beach
and heavy surf. These natural causes form the great strength of the pass, which also is a
defile of considerable length, being upward of three hundred yards from where it
narrows at the foot of the first hill to the further extremity where it widens into a more
open space, which however still possesses its own particular defences from nature. This
pass struck us all with wonder at its strength; …….. The coast directly opposite it is full
of shoals and rocks, and besides extremely dangerous from a dreadful surf, which rages
equally along the sandy beach as where it is rocky.

After quitting the strong and important post of Musenberg, there opens before you a
broad flat sandy plain, at the commencement of which is a range of store houses and
barracks, with a battery, ……. A little beyond is a broad lake, which however is
fordable, except in very wet weather; and, as it lies directly in the way, it must of
necessity be crossed. ….. All along the sides of this lake to Constantia, which is situated
in an angle or nook formed by the hills that turn off from Musenberg towards Hoets
Bay, there is a surprising variety of game. The spring bock and small antelopes often
start up before you on the road. The lake runs close to the sea on the right, from which it
is separated by a ridge of sand formed by the violent winds. The water it contains is
brackish. As you advance you encounter several smaller though deeper lakes, and also
rivulets and marshes which must be crossed. This part of the country has a wild and
desolate appearance; only a few stunted and parched shrubs grow amongst the ridges of
sand. Tigers, hyenas, wolves, and jackals infest the neighbouring hills, and frequently
come down at night to devour the cattle, which may have strayed, or been left without a
proper guard. They have often been known to attack men; …… “